The Red-footed tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria) has gained popularity as a pet due to their bright colors, small to medium size, and sociable personalities. These tortoises have unique care requirements that distinguish them from other commonly owned tortoise species. With proper care they can live 30 to 50 years in captivity. 

NATURAL HABITAT

Red-footed tortoises are native to northern South America and the Caribbean islands where they prefer warm, wet habitats in the transitional zones of forest and grasslands. The majority of the Red-footed tortoises habitat remains around 86°F with high humidity and plentiful rainfall. Temperatures and humidity will vary during the cooler wet season (April-August) and warmer dry season (September-March), but will rarely get lower than 70°F or higher than 95°F. Wild Red-footed tortoises will spend much of their time inactive in areas that provide thermoregulation and protection from predators. These areas include burrows, hollow logs, piles of forest debris and heavy vegetation cover.

CAPTIVE CARE REQUIREMENTS

ENCLOSURE

We recommend Red-footed tortoises be housed outdoors whenever possible. The outdoor enclosure should have areas of direct sun exposure as well as shaded areas. 

Pens should be constructed with solid walls which the tortoises cannot see through. Tortoises will try in vain for hours to walk through fences if they can see through to the other side. The walls should have a minimum height of 1.5x times the length of your tortoise (usually around 20-24 inches) and extend below the ground surface a minimum of 6 inches to discourage tortoises from digging under the walls. The enclosure must also provide protection from predators and other family pets, such as dogs, which could harm the tortoise.  An insulated shed or structure with heat lamps should be provided for your outdoor tortoise when temperatures get below 70°F. These structures can be made from converted garden sheds, dog houses, or constructed by the owner. Thermometers should be placed near the heat lamps and by the entrance of the enclosure to appropriately monitor temperature.

Indoor housing can also be considered, especially for juveniles, to ensure a proper environment. Enclosures with clear sides, like aquariums, are not recommended as the tortoise will constantly attempt to walk through the clear glass. Commercially available tortoise enclosures such as the Zoo Med Tortoise House or a terrestrial WaterLand Tub work well. However, a good sized storage container can work just as well. These enclosures need to be secure from other family pets such as dogs. Larger tortoises will often need an indoor habitat constructed if housed indoors.

Cage Size – As much space as you can reasonably be provided for your tortoise is recommended. Outdoor enclosures should be minimally 4x8 feet in size for an adult tortoise. Indoor enclosures for juveniles can be a little smaller (at least 3 feet long and 2 feet wide), but the tortoise will need a larger enclosure as they grow.

Substrate  –  Hardwood mulches such as cypress mulch mixed with coconut fiber, topsoil and leaf litter should be used to mimic the forest floor of their natural habitat. Avoid small reptile bark, wood shavings, sand, and gravel as these can be accidentally ingested. Substrates should be at least 4-12 inches deep or more to allow the tortoise to burrow. It is important to allow the substrate to be slightly moist, but not overly wet and muddy, in order to provide proper humidity for your tortoise. Providing proper substrate is essential for this species to mimic the high humidity they experience in the wild.

Cage Furnishings

Water should be provided using a shallow, wide dish large enough to allow the tortoise to freely enter and exit. Alternatively, water can be provided by flooding a small area of the pen or soaking your tortoise for 15-30 minutes in shallow warm water 2-3 times a week. Use a flat dish or patio stone for a food dish to prevent the tortoise from accidentally ingesting substrate while eating as this can lead to obstruction. Shade, shelter and food can be provided for your tortoise by planting edible shrubs and plants in your tortoise's enclosure. Examples of small shrubs native to Arizona include yellow trumpet flower, desert rose mallow and Indian mallow. Please refer to the Arizona Game and Fish website, here, for a list of appropriate plants for desert tortoise enclosures that are appropriate for your Red-footed tortoise’s enclosure as well. 

Tortoises housed outdoors should have access to deep shade (shaded areas within shaded areas). Deep shade can be provided by using trees, shrubs, shade sails and awnings. Tortoise owners need to be mindful of how shade changes throughout the day as the sun moves.

Disinfection and Cleaning 

For indoor enclosures, droppings should be removed as noted but minimally daily. Substrates should be replaced 1-2 times monthly or more if needed. Disinfect the enclosure and furnishings at least monthly using a 1 to 10 freshly made dilute bleach solution. Make sure to rinse the enclosure well with water after to remove the bleach. Drying the enclosure in the sun will also help in the disinfection process. Outdoor enclosures should be free of visible feces which should be raked up regularly. Water bowls should be cleaned and sanitized every 2-4 weeks as above.

TEMPERATURE, LIGHTING AND HUMIDITY

Temperature: Basking area: 95-100°F, warm side not directly under heat lamp: 80-86°F, point farthest from lamp: 70-80°F

Heat should be provided for your tortoise using a lamp securely suspended above the enclosure at the distance recommended by the manufacturer. Zoo Med makes a lamp stand that works great for suspending lamps above the tortoise's enclosure. The heat lamp should use a ceramic bulb that does not produce light. Ceramic bulbs provide heat at night without disturbing the tortoise’s rest. The heat lamp should be placed off to one side of the enclosure to allow for a temperature gradient. Allow your tortoise plenty of room to move within their enclosure so they can choose how warm they want to be. Using a thermometer on the hot and cool sides of the enclosure is recommended to assure proper temperatures. You may also use an infrared laser thermometer to measure the temperature of your tortoises basking spot. Heat rocks are not recommended in reptiles as they are known to cause burns.

Tortoises housed outdoors should have a thermometer placed in their sleeping area if possible.

Humidity: Humidity should ideally be between 70-90% in the tortoises enclosure. As a tropical species, Red-footed tortoises require higher levels of humidity than tortoises that live in desert environments. Tortoises housed indoors should have their humidity maintained by misting their enclosure for 30 seconds 2-3 times daily. A reptile fogger can also be used to regularly mist the tortoise's enclosure. Providing your tortoise with a proper substrate is imperative to maintaining proper humidity. Humidity should be measured with a hygrometer in your tortoises enclosure. Tortoises housed outdoors can have their humidity and hydration maintained with misters, sprinklers and a soaking pond. A soaking pond can easily be provided with a large dish that the tortoise can enter and exit freely. The water of this dish needs to be replaced daily as tortoises are known to defecate in their dishes.  A humid hide should be provided for your tortoise whether it is indoors or outdoors. These can be made from a lidded storage container with an opening just large enough for your tortoise cut into the side. If you prefer a more natural look, you can use Zoo Med's Repti Shelter or Exo Terra's Gecko or Snake Caves. The hide will need to be relatively enclosed to ensure the humidity rises within it. The hide will need to be filled with a moist material such as sphagnum moss or leaf litter, and placed in a warm area of the enclosure. Check the hide regularly and replace the moss and leaf litter when they are soiled and dry.

Lighting: When housed indoors, Red-footed tortoises should be provided artificial UVB lighting to allow for proper calcium absorption from their diet. This should be provided through a commercially available fluorescent or mercury vapor reptile bulb specifically designed for this purpose. The UVB bulb should mimic sunlight as much as possible by having a Color Rendering Index (CRI) of 90 or better. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions as far as bulb placement, typically most bulbs require the animal to be able to get within 12-18” for proper UVB exposure. The light from the UVB bulb needs to be unobstructed by glass or other objects to prevent the blockage of the UVB rays. UVB lighting should be provided for 13 hours per day during the summer months and 11 hours per day during the Winter months. Bulbs should be replaced every 6-12 months, again depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations, as they will stop producing UVB light long before they stop giving off visible light. A solarmeter can also be purchased to determine if your bulb is giving off sufficient UVB light.

Tortoises housed outdoors will receive all the UVB light they need from the sun. Outdoor tortoises should be provided with areas of direct sunlight as well as shaded areas.

DIET

Red-footed tortoises are omnivores, meaning they eat both plant and animal protein. They do best when their diet is varied to ensure they get vital micronutrients. The goal for your Red-footed tortoises diet should be about 70% leafy greens, 20% fruit and 10% animal protein. The majority of their diet should be mixed greens and vegetables. Edible shrubs and garden plants can also be planted in their outdoor enclosure, which many tortoises will relish. A list of native plants for desert tortoises is available here that are acceptable for your Red-footed tortoise as well. 

A select VARIETY of the following can be offered daily:

Grasses and grass hays (like Timothy), Edible Weeds (dichondra, dandelion, spurge, purslane, plantains, spiny lettuce, clover, goathead, mallow, etc.), Shrubs/Cultivated plants (hibiscus, cape honeysuckle, mulberry, strawberry bush, grape leaves, viola, violet, pansies, poppy, petunia, geraniums, etc.), Alfalfa (plants), Cactus pad/leaf (prickly pear), Cactus pear (prickly pear), herbs (parsley, cilantro), Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Endive, Escarole, Mustard Greens, Lettuce (red leaf, romaine, NOT ICEBERG), Squash (acorn, butternut, spaghetti, summer), and Turnip greens.

Can be offered occasionally as treats:

Alfalfa sprouts, Apples, Apricots (fresh), Bell peppers, Blackberries, Blueberries, Cabbage (red), Cantaloupe, Carrots (raw), Celery, Cherries (remove pit), Cilantro, Clover, Cranberries (fresh), Cucumbers, Grapefruit, Grapes, Honeydew melons, Nectarines, Oranges, Pea sprouts, Peaches (remove pit), Pears, Pineapple, Prunes, Pumpkin (raw), Radish, Raisins, Kelp, Strawberries, Watermelon, Wheat grass (pet grass), Yams (raw), Banana, Beet greens, Beets, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Corn, Kiwi, Parsley, Peas, Pomegranate, Potato, Raspberries, Rice, Rutabaga, Brussels sprouts, Star Fruit, Swiss Chard, and Tomato.

Red-footed tortoises should be offered fruit 2 times weekly as they will commonly eat fruit in the wild. This is different than tortoises from desert habitats who should be rarely fed fruit. Common fruits you can offer your tortoise include strawberry, apple, papaya and cactus fruit. Red-footed tortoises will eat animal protein in the wild and should be provided with a small amount of protein once weekly. Common protein items include boiled chicken, hard boiled eggs, pinky mice and live insects (small mealworms or dubia roaches) among others. It is important not to overfeed your tortoise with protein as too much protein can lead to shell deformities and kidney disease.

You can also supplement your tortoise’s diet with pelleted foods such as Mazuri tortoise diet for Red-footed tortoises or Zoo Med Natural Forest Tortoise Food. Many tortoises do not initially want to eat pelleted diets. You can start to transition them to pelleted diets by mashing them in water and spreading it on their greens.

Water should always be available for your tortoise to drink. Water can easily be provided with a large soaking dish that your tortoise can enter and exit freely. 

Dietary Supplementation: Red-footed tortoises need their diet regularly supplemented with appropriate vitamins and minerals.  This is because captive reptile diets are often imbalanced, which can lead to serious health conditions such as metabolic bone disease. A calcium carbonate powder such as ReptiCal and a multivitamin such as Reptivite should be put on their food 2-3 times weekly. More information on nutritional supplementation is available here. 

BRUMATION

This species of tortoise does NOT brumate during the winter months like other tortoise species do as they are from a climate that remains warm year-round. Red-footed tortoises will typically slow down on eating and activity levels during cooler months but not enter a true brumation.

GENDERING YOUR RED-FOOTED TORTOISE

Red-footed tortoises are sexually dimorphic (males look different from females) making it easy to gender adult tortoises. They will typically reach sexual maturity when they are 6-8 years old and approximately 6 inches long. Captive tortoises often grow faster than wild tortoises due to increased access to food. Male Red-footed tortoises will typically be larger and more colorful than females. Males will have a prominent indent on their plastron (lower shell) while females will have a flat plastron. Male Red-footed tortoises will have a longer, muscular tail and wider anal scutes than females.